Provence is inviting and laid back, exuberant but not gaudy, and likely to nourish rather than challenge your senses
It was easy to fall in love with Provence just a few days in and having only frequented one town. Now having visited for two summers in a row, it’s easily one of my favourite parts of the world – without question.
Life is slower here, with the region very much characterised by it’s abundance of Mediterranean light, roman villages and endless fields of lavender and sunflowers, with quaint little farm houses at just the right corner.
Aside from the incredible fresh produce, producing over half of the nation’s fresh fruit and vegetables, it’s also one of the sweetest smelling places on earth; home to the perfume capital of the world, Grasse.
Any clouds in sight are likely to be wispy and almost transparent, lingering in the sky as if their presence were to act as a supporting role to the perfect backdrop for a painting.
A drive along the roads connecting the towns of the Luberon Valley, for instance, delivers some of most breathtaking sights, and just by taking a stroll in the gardens of Hotel Le Pigonnet, one can experience the same views that inspired Paul Sezanne in his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire.
With all the literature surrounding Provence, it almost feels like a dream, yet the depictions are very much real and most importantly, attainable.
So on that note, let me share with you my top things to do Provence.
1. Experience the markets
In some parts of Provence, notably The Luberon Valley, each town has a different market day. Of all, Roussillon was my favourite – small but complementary to a morning that one could spend exploring the colourful, charming village located on top of one of the world’s largest ochre deposits.
Two of my favourite larger markets include:
• Aix-En-Provence farmers market (read more about my visit here)
• Cours Saleya in Nice (Flea market on Mondays, flower market on Sundays, fresh produce in the morning – outdoor dining at night)
2. Enjoy the local goods & natural produce
You can’t leave Provence without picking up a couple of the items below. I’ve got little pouches of lavender from Le Chatelard 1802 around the house, and every so often, all you need is to gently give it a squeeze to release the oils and you can keep these for up to two years. For some of the ‘must buys’, don’t miss:
• Lavender – including honey, soap or dried lavender
• Soap – some of the best is produced in Marseille, and I highly recommend a visit to Compagnie de Provence
• Perfume – as the perfume capital of the world, Grasse is also home to renowned perfumier Fragonard and several perfume museums, where you can learn about perfume is made from the start to the end
• Cavaillon melon
• Olive oil
• And of course, the local artwork
3. Savor the Provençal cuisine
Visit the markets and you’ll notice the cuisine here is farm to table dining at its best, focusing on fresh ingredients and seasonal produce.
Many hotels offer fantastic restaurants on site, and of course being in France, it’s incredibly easy to stumble upon Michelin starred restaurants that fortunately don’t require require several months’ reservations in advance.
• Le Pigonnet, Aix-En-Provence [above]: This encapsulates everything I love about Provence. Go here for lunch and request to be seated on the terrace amongst their beautiful gardens (bookings recommended)
• Les Saveurs Gourmandes, Menerbes: Take an afternoon stroll in this quiet hilltop village and have dinner here – it’s a lovely local restaurant (Michelin recommended) with very affordable set and tasting menus.
• Pèir by Pierre Gagnare, Gordes [above]: Located inside La Bastide de Gordes hotel, head here for the incredible degustation menu, request to be seated on their intimate balcony (only 6 tables when I dined) and enjoy some of the most sensational views of Provence (bookings recommended). Alternatively, in the same location, The Citadelle also offers the same views with a significantly larger terrace but serving more traditional Provençal dishes
• Chez Roger Coquillages, Marseille: Occupying waterfront views, order the Fruits de Mer platter and watch the world go by
• Restaurants along Place des Cardeurs, Aix-En-Provence [above]: Come early and take time exploring the side streets and old town of Aix – it’s really like no other city. The glow of the sunset against the orange and pink-hued buildings creates the most magical dining atmosphere.
4. And finally, stay in a hilltop village in the Luberon Valley
Perched on the edge of possibly the most beautiful and well-preserved village in the region, La Bastide De Gordes boasts not only unparalled views of the Luberon Valley but epitomises the best of what the region has to offer – excellent restaurant options (including Pèir by Pierre Gagnare), landscaped pools, elegant décor and excellent hospitality.
If you have any questions or comments on Provence, please feel free to get in touch or write a comment below!